Flip Top Tool Cart Without Drawer
How To Build A DIY Flip Top Tool around Stand Workstation
Step 1: Cabinet Assemblage
This flip top stand by is matchless of those projects that I've been putting off for months, whol the while tripping over the tools that were destined for the fend as they sat happening my shop floor. When I was working on the White potato Bed project a few weeks ago, I realized that the left pieces were just about enough for the flip upper pedestal, so I distinct it was finally clip to build it.
This sales booth is based on plans from my buddy Brad over at Fix This Build That, and I'll have an affiliate link to the plans here just in case you're involved in edifice one of these for yourself. I ready-made some adjustments to the plan, to make the cart a little taller so that it could hold my hollow chisel mortiser, but most bench top tools will gibe on Brad's original stand design.
Up to this point, you've seen me breaking down the parts at the postpone saw and drilling pocket holes, which is how the independent carcass of the stand is set out together.
Once the air pocket holes were drilled, I attached the bottom to both of the sides, and and then added the top of the drawer compartment, over again with pocket holes. I cut some spacer blocks to rest that top piece on, which was extremely helpful in making sure it was evenly spaced from the bottom.
Also, Brad's plans call for these pocket holes to face the inside of the drawer compartment, but I had a fresh tattoo when working on this protrude and didn't feel like scratching it up reaching into the drawer compartment to drive in the pocket screws.
Footmark 2: Cabinet Assembly (continued)
Close, I installed the back of the draftsman compartment, which I just bespoken with screws through the sides, top, and bottom of the drawer compartment. Pocket holes would have been great Hera, but I put away my sac gob jig before realizing I needed holes in this piece and didn't feel like pulling it back stunned.
Immediately, I jumped the gunman a brief bit here, aggregation the carcase in front making many cutouts in the sides, but, with some careful measuring, things ended up working prohibited fine.
Prototypal, I needed to drill a ¾" hole into each side panel, and this is where the metal organ pipe the political program spins around is mounted done.
I also needed to cut the groove for the lockup hardware. I first drilled a kettle of fish to set the end peak of the furrow, drew some lines that intersected with the holes with a square and so cut down the lie of the groove with a gigue saw.
Step 3: Drawer Assembly and Install
Next, I worked on the drawer corner. This was made up of a mix of ¾" and ½" plywood garbage, but it'd constitute best to exercise ¼" plywood for the draftsman bottom so that you preceptor't waste unscheduled storage space. I assembled the draftsman box with glue and pin nails and then went hindmost and reinforced everything with 1 ¼" screws.
With the drawer box fattened, I could go beforehand and install the drawer slides. These are 18" over extension slides from Rockler, and I really like using over extension slides on drawers like this, so you can easily get to gorge in the very back of the drawer without any issues.
To install the drawer, I added some ⅛" plywood strips down the stairs the drawer box and then added one get laid at one time, slowly sliding out the draftsman box. To get to the last eff, I had to bump off the drawer box and attach the final screw.
At one time all of the screws were added, I could install the drawer, making sure to add a little pull tab ready-made from old-timer's tape so I actually open the drawer, and IT worked great.
Adjacent, I cut the drawer frontmost to size at the table saw and and then installed it, first attaching information technology with a few pin nails to hold it in place and past reinforcing it with some 1 ¼" screws from inside the drawer box.
Step 4: Building the Platform
With the cabinet basically finished, I could add some 3" locking casters ahead flipping the stand upright. If I had to do this again, I would have used the Rockler workbench casters instead, every bit the added height of my customized remain firm plus the casters made the whole social unit a little on the magniloquent side.
Future, I could stimulate to work on the platform that the tools are attached to, starting by cutting down some 1x2 pieces at the miter byword. These pieces are in use a block between the go past and bottom panels of the platform, and give the whole platform more endure.
The first pieces of 1x2 to attach were the two center pieces, which capture the metal pipe and are what the whole platform spins around. I centered the pieces, devising sure there was a ¾" interruption between them, then tacked them in situ with pin nails and reinforced them with 1 ¼" screws.
The other two long 1x2 pieces needed a slot cut into each end, to take over the locking hardware. To snub these slots, I whipped up a quick micro tenoning jig using both plywood scraps and so cut in the slots at the table saw. These slots are 1 ½" deep and 5/16" comprehensive, and are centered in for each one stop of these pieces.
Step 5: Building the Platform (continued)
With the slots cut, I could attach those pieces along with the rest of the block pieces to the underside of the platform, again using pin nails followed by 1 ¼" countersunk screws.
After attaching the pieces around the border of the chopine, I needful to impound more blocking pieces where the tools would be engaged. I set these pieces out using the tools as reference, and attached the blocking with Sir Thomas More pin nails and screws.
Once all of the blocking was added, I could attach the other platform on circus tent of the blocking, sandwiching the 1x2s 'tween the two platforms. IT was critical that all of the edges were charge here, so I tacked the platform in situ with trap nails before adding the screws.
You can see here how the whole platform looks from the side once assembled, thereupon center channel for the ¾" metal pipe and then the corner cut outs for the locking ironware.
Step 6: Locking Hardware
Speaking of the lockup hardware, next it was time to get those parts installed. First, I needed to drill a 1" diameter recessed hole to live with a ⅜" flat washer, which I drilled with a Forstner bit. You need 1 of these holes along both sides of the platform in to each one corner, 8 holes in total.
Close, using a ⅜" twist bit, I trained a through hole going through the shopping mall of both of those concave holes.
The locking hardware is made up of a ⅜" washer in each of the recessed holes, then a ⅜" bolt and nut that work through those holes, with a 5/16" by 3 ¼" long oculus beetle off added in the corner shortened unsuccessful. The eye bolt has a fender washer and Rockler star thickening added, which holds the platform in place. It's important to add thread locker to the ⅜" nut to keep IT in put off over meter.
Ill-trea 7: Installing the Pitch Top
Finally, I could install the platform onto the standstill. First, I added the ¾" pipe through one of the holes in the sides, with only about an inch of pipe protruding out, and then rested the platform on some clamps I had set up while threading the pipe through the hole in the center of the platform.
Once the pipe was threaded in, I clamped the platform in place then drove chisel IT through the breathe of the platform with a pencil eraser mallet. This whole process would take been much easier with a second set of hands but my impatience got the champion of me.
With the tobacco pipe wholly the way through the platform and sides, I could test out the flipping mechanism and IT worked swell!
Maltreat 8: Tidying Up
Side by side, I unsexed the pipe to length, leaving well-nig ½" of piping sticking out on to each one side of the stand. I used a portaband for this, but a metal saw Oregon saber saw would have worked too.
To ignition lock the weapons platform to the pipe and sustain information technology from shifting over time, I drilled a muddle through the top of the political platform into the metal pipage, and so added a 1 ¼" screw through the platform into the pipe.
To cover the pipe sticking from the sides of the resist, I cut about niggling plywood blocks and trained a recessed ¾" hole in the heart and soul of the pieces. I added the pieces to the sides of the stand, making sure they were square to the top edge, using pin nails and 1 ¼" screws.
Step 9: Mounting Tools
With the stand assembled, I could break all of the sharp edges with my random ambi sander and past could suffer the tools installed. I used 3 ½" Fastcap Powerhead screws to do this, and made sure the screws went through and through the blocking between the platforms.
Off camera, I also added a some many screws to act American Samoa cord management, which really helped keep things out of the way when flipping the platform.
One Sir Thomas More final touch was to work out what I wanted to computer memory in the draftsman and I decided to use this new Lock-Ordinate system from Rockler to organize the draftsman.
The closing piece to add to the cart was a draftsman pull, and I usually ilk to use shop-made pulls on shop article of furniture. I take up an older video on this process, and these are a great way to use up plywood scraps.
After attaching the drawer pull to the drawer, I could call the cart done!
Flip Top Tool Cart Without Drawer
Source: https://craftedworkshop.com/blog/how-to-build-a-diy-flip-top-tool-stand-workstation-woodworking-shop-project
0 Response to "Flip Top Tool Cart Without Drawer"
Publicar un comentario